Sailing
#17 – Sicily, the Aeolian and Aegadian Islands
Setting of into Summer – A Fleet Sets Sail in New Directions
This blog captures the bittersweet farewell from Marina di Ragusa and the start of a new sailing chapter. From stormy passages and unexpected plan changes to quiet anchorages and shared sunsets. The journey takes us along Sicily, through Sardinia, and toward Corsica. Despite the unpredictability of life at sea, it's the people and moments that leave the deepest imprint.
The past few months in Marina di Ragusa were a time of settling in, preparing, and, above all, being together. But on April 30th, our winter contract ended, and with us, many friends also left the safe harbor, ready for new adventures.
It felt like the start of a sailing regatta: boats that had swayed side by side for months now hoisted their sails at the same time, driven by the same longing for freedom and fresh experiences.
Our first destination after departing Marina di Ragusa was Syracuse, a city full of history, charm, and Southern Italian spirit. We already know, we’ll miss Syracuse. And one thing is certain, our journey continues, with no plans to return to Sicily for now.
We’re not sailing alone. Our faithful friend Markus is joining us on this adventure, and with Vanessa and Simon, we’ve made new friendships that feel as though they’ve always been there. Together, we experience the beauty of the open sea, carried by the wind, the waves, and the anticipation of all that lies ahead. Our beloved marina neighbors, Mia and Tony, also spend a few last days with us in the bay of Siracuse before setting off on their own path.
It’s a quiet goodbye, but in the world of sailors, no farewell is forever, the sea has its own ways of bringing us back together.
Anchorage in Siracusa: We're surrounded by familiar boats from Marina di Ragusa. The catamaran is Bazinga, with our friends Simon & Vanessa on board. To the right is Freya, home to Tony & Mia. Look closely and you’ll spot a black dot at the top of Freya’s mast, that’s Tony, hard at work fixing something aloft.
The charming old streets of Siracusa.
Through the Strait of Messina to the Aeolian Islands
Our journey had taken us through the Strait of Messina. The ship traffic and currents had been manageable, but as soon as we reached the open sea at the far end of the strait, the wind began to build, stronger and stronger with each passing mile. After a long winter without sailing, we felt the strain more than expected. The boat behaved unpredictably, and suddenly every moment on the water felt tense and uncertain. It was a battle against the wind, pushing us to our limits.
Around us, dark clouds gathered and truly tested our endurance. The gusts had been fierce and erratic, and our boat violently kept rounding up into the wind, startling us more than once. Luckily, this dramatic episode only lasted a few hours. The farther we sailed from Messina, the calmer and more manageable the conditions became.
Later, we realized why the boat had felt so unstable, the hull was heavily fouled. We hadn’t cleaned it before leaving the winter marina, and the thick layer of growth significantly affected our sailing performance, making every gust harder to manage and every maneuver more demanding.
We anchored on the west side of the island of Vulcano, as the strong winds funneling through the Strait of Messina made the eastern side unsuitable. But even the west offered little relief, heavy swell and restless waters left us with no real moments of calm. Shifting winds made it impossible to find shelter or stay longer to explore more of these volcanic islands. A bit exhausted and disappointed, we decided to leave the Aeolian Islands after just three or four nights on achor.
We headed for one of our favorite Sicilian towns, Cefalù. The thought of wandering again through its alleys, and soaking in the Mediterranean atmosphere quickly made up for the change in plans.
Of course, we had to stop in Castellammare del Golfo, a charming town that enchanted us with its historic harbor and relaxed atmosphere. We spent a few days at anchor, enjoyed some great pizza with our buddy boats, and soaked in the laid-back vibe before continuing on to our final stop in Sicily: San Vito Lo Capo.
Next came the Egadi Islands, just a few miles off the western coast of Sicily. Unfortunately, they offered little to no protection. We found one calm anchorage, but spent most of our time moving twice a day in search of shelter, only to realize the swell was everywhere. Our windlass began acting up, making things even more challenging. After several days of constant re-anchoring, we decided it was time to move on and prepared for the crossing to Sardinia. We planned a night sail and set our course northwest toward Villasimius. As the sun disappeared below the horizon, we and Bazinga sailed into the dark. Markus chose to stay a few days longer in Sicily.
Lumos in front of Cefalu, picture taken by our friend Vanessa from there catamaran Bazinga.
Anchorage in Cefalù. The boat anchored farthest to the left is Nordre Rose (Markus), while Lumos and Bazinga (Si & Vanessa) are anchored just to the right of the marina.
