Mediterranean Sea, Sailing

#14 – Off to Turkiye

Juli 20, 2023

A Challenging Start in Leros and a Mountain of Boat Work

"The cure for anything is salt water: sweat, tears, or the sea." – Isak Dinesen

After a sun-soaked winter in Thailand, we returned to Switzerland for a few weeks to visit friends and family. Meanwhile, our sailboat, Lumos, was waiting on the island of Leros, dry on land and desperately in need of a new rudder. Before our departure, we took the rudder down and realized it was beyond repair. Now, we hoped the ordered replacement part would be ready and fit properly.

As soon as we arrived, fate threw a wrench in our plans. Covid hit us hard. We spent a week in bed with fever and pain.

Thankfully, our new friends, Mario and Sibylle, in the marina provided us with medication, helping us get through this rough patch.

Once recovered, we threw ourselves into work with renewed energy, the new rudder was installed, the keel was sanded down, sealed with epoxy layers, antifouling was applied, and the hull was polished. Finally, Lumos was back in the water!

The start of the sailing season was definitely not without its hiccups. Minor electronic issues were resolved within a few days at anchor off Leros. However, shortly after setting sail, a bigger problem arose, the engine started overheating. Out at sea, our only option was to reduce speed and hope for the best.

Funda was especially excited to explore her homeland by sea with our own sailboat. It was an opportunity to show her relatives her unconventional lifestyle and share her joy with them. We were particularly looking forward to her brother’s wedding, which we absolutely didn’t want to miss. But first, we planned to sail a bit further south along the Turkish coast. Our first destination, Turgutreis, Turkey.

Burim sanding the keel down to bare metal. The lower part of the keel is made of lead, easy to sand but highly toxic if inhaled

Burim, exhausted after days of sanding, working on the keel by hand because the marina had no time to sandblast it, and their price was a staggering €3,000 just for the keel alone. Covered in dust, armed with determination, and unwilling to pay the outrageous fee, he took on the tough job himself.

Entering Turkey was a pleasant surprise. While in Greece, we often struggled with bureaucratic hurdles and grumpy officials, here we were greeted with tea and warm hospitality. Our agent took care of the formalities in no time and even drove us to a bank and a mobile provider.

Now our Turkish adventure could begin! In Bodrum, Funda’s nephew Denis joined us on board for a few days. Together, we explored the charming alleys of the old town before continuing along the coast to Datça and Marmaris. The bays were breathtaking crystal-clear turquoise water, rugged cliffs, and ancient ruins. Datça, in particular, enchanted us with its mix of nature, history, and friendly people.

In Marmaris, Funda’s sister and her family joined us on board, and we enjoyed wonderful moments together. From shared meals on deck to exploring the picturesque streets of Marmaris, every moment was precious and unforgettable.

Continuing our journey, we sailed to Fethiye and explored the surrounding islands near Göcek. The steep coastlines often forced us to anchor at depths of 20–25 meters and secure shore lines to rocks. Our 80-meter anchor chain was frequently stretched to its limit, and the number of superyachts increased daily. Still, the magical bays made every effort worthwhile.

After about ten days, we had had enough of the countless superyachts and charter boats, which were packed together like sardines. Finding a good anchoring spot became a challenge. We would have loved to continue further south, but missing the wedding up north was not an option. And leaving Lumos in a marina was absolutely unaffordable for us. Marina prices in Turkey had skyrocketed over the last two years. One marina we inquired about was asking over 16,000 euros for just a six-month winter berth for a 37 foot boat, absolutely insane! So, we decided to sail back north. Our destination, Burhaniye, where we would leave the boat in a marina and attend Funda’s brothers wedding in Bursa.