SAILING
#13 – One summer in Greece
After a two-day crossing from Italy, we finally arrived at the bay of Argostoli in Greece. Our excitement about exploring a new country and reuniting with our friends increased with every passing moment. It didn't take long until we spotted the sails of our friends Nina and Andy on the horizon. The trio of Eilean, Nordre Rose, and Lumos was finally reunited.
Although the water in the bay was murky and did not meet our expectations of Greece, we were thrilled to discover the first huge sea turtles. After stocking up on supplies, we continued sailing to Fteri Beach - a place that perfectly matched our expectations of Greece, as we had seen in pictures. This small gem is only accessible by sailboat or foot, revealing its breathtaking beauty to us. We dove into the crystal-clear water and agreed: we had found paradise!
In the following weeks, we enjoyed the liveaboard lifestyle along the northern coast of Kefalonia, where we were awestruck by the beauty of Foki Beach in Fiskardo. Continuing our voyage, we sailed to the nearby island of Ithaca before heading south to Zakynthos. The hidden and often very small, but calm anchorages along the way welcomed us for a good night sleep. However, it was the Marine Park in Lagans, Zakynthos, that truly took our breath away.
We dared to try the Mediterranean mooring with landlines for the first time, which proved to be very time-consuming compared to regular anchoring. But with some practice, we became faster and more efficient and learned to enjoy this type of anchoring.
The Ionian Sea around Corfu and Meganisi is often crowded with charter boats in the summer. To escape the hustle and bustle, we decided to explore the Peloponnese and then head to the Cyclades. On the way down to the Peloponnese, we met our friends Christ & Monuiq on their Sailboat named Manana. It pleased us so much that we had met them again that we decided to make a trip to Olympia together. It was impressive to see how advanced people were so many years ago, and how they were able to build such a magnificent site.
With the north wind from the Adria we sail down to Pylos, a small town on the southwestern coast of the Peloponnese, which is known for its picturesque harbor and beautiful beaches. However, beneath the serene surface, lies a tumultuous past marked by centuries of violence and conflict. Pylos was a strategic location in ancient Greece, and was the site of many battles. The ruins of the medieval castle atop the hill overlooking the town are a testament to its turbulent past. Despite the violence that once ravaged this land, today Pylos is a peaceful and charming place, a testament to the resilience of the people who call it home.
At Simos Beach, we feel like we've been transported to the Maldives. We anchor in crystal-clear water over white sand, and our sailboat appears to hover over the ground due to the amazing clarity of the water.
As we drop anchor in the bay of Agia Marina, we spot the shadow of the wreck of the Kaptan Ismail Hakki in the distance like a ghost, beckoning us to explore its eerie remains. With a mix of nervousness and excitement, we embark on our first wreck freediving adventure. The wreck rests on its side, an imposing and foreboding presence at a depth of 18 meters. As we approach, its true magnitude overwhelms us, making us feel small and insignificant. It seems as though a horrifying sea creature could emerge from the shadowy depths at any moment. This is a dive we will never forget, a haunting and mesmerizing experience that leaves us with a newfound respect for the power and mystery of the ocean. On Instagram @sailinglumos you can see what we are talking about, klick on the button below.
The old town of Monemvasia appears like a fairytale castle as we approach from the south with the imposing stone walls and Byzantine churches. We spend a night on anchor in front of the old city and sail further north the next day. The Peloponnese was truly peaceful, with only a few charter boats seeming to have strayed from their routes and anchored amongst the liveaboards, as if they were out of place. But as we come closer to the region of Athens, the charter boats take over the majority again. This did not bother us, as it was a little too quiet for us in the Peloponnese.
The area around Athens, which is known as Attica, remains in special memory for us. Our friends from the sailing boat Bato joined us, and we spent several weeks together. Sailing Chicken briefly joined us as well, and Marius came from Switzerland for a short but valuable visit. Shortly thereafter, Thea visited us, and we cannot imagine what it will be like without our friends.
We drop off Thea and set off for Leros, as winter is just a few weeks away. Along the way, we visit some islands in the Cyclades, but only a few impress us. For example, the island of Delos, located next to Mykonos is a jewel. But most of the islands are barren landscapes with a few goats or they are overrun by tourists. On Mykonos, we are startled as we anchor directly in front of the city and see thousands of people pouring onto the island every day from large cruise ships. The entire island feels like a show without passion. We like the smaller Cyclades better, but even here there is very little vegetation and life. The Cyclades are very beautiful, do not get us wrong, but after a few weeks, we were tired of the barren and similar landscape and were happy when we arrived at final destination Leros, a small island on the border to Turkey.
In Leros we took Lumos out of the water to carry out some necessary repairs and decided not to spend the winter on Lumos for the first time. After a visit to Switzerland, we flew to Southeast Asia and spent some time in Thailand & Malaysia. It was a great experience to discover new places, cultures, and flavors. But still, we missed Lumos and were eager to get back to sailing as soon as possible
